Insulate Your Home Against Energy and Financial Loss

Infrared camera shows the areas of heat loss and where sealing is most important.

Basement Insulation

It may seem counterintuitive, but up to 25-30% of energy loss can be through basement cement or cinder block walls. Building science shows that significant energy leeches out when a cold outside wall has no insulation. Cement block is very porous, meaning it is easy for heat to leave your home in winter, or seep into your home during summer.

Fortunately, there’s a great solution: installing basement insulation. There are several types of insulation materials that serve different purposes depending on your needs and your home.

The Priority: Spray Foam — Rim Joist Insulation

Tyler (Chief Energy Assessor) spray foaming basement rim joists and sealing gaps where energy is lost.

Rim joists are the single leakiest part of your basement and the second leakiest place in a home. The rim joist is the area between your foundation wall and your first floor, typically made out of wood. Because this area is located above ground, when it's cold out your heat will leak out. Rim joists are part of your exterior wall, and most homes built prior to 2010 do not have proper insulation in this area.

Before considering any full basement insulation options, you'll want to have your rim joists spray foamed. To meet code and U.S. Department of Energy standards, you typically need about 2" of insulation.

The energy loss from uninsulated rim joists is the most common reason that your basement feels cold and damp in the winter and humid in summer. It is a major contributor to drafts during cold windy days.

Video: Tyler explains how he identifies gaps and areas of leaks in a basement

Rigid Form - Basement Wall Insulation

Leaving your basement uninsulated is a lot like walking around in winter without shoes - no matter how many coats or hats you put on, you are still going to lose much of your body temperature through your feet! And here’s something most homeowners don’t know: Concrete and cinder block basement walls are about as insulating as a single pane of glass. That’s why additional thermal barriers are so important.

We use fire-safe white rigid foam insulation that can be left exposed and looks similar to drywall. These sheets of rigid foam board are adhered directly to the foundation and are extremely effective at protecting against heat loss.

Pros

• Fast installation

• Can be left exposed and looks similar to drywall, creating a finished feel for living space

• Water safe, unlike drywall or fiberglass which can lead to mold in damp basements

• Highly cost effective compared to finishing and drywalling

• Drywall can be added later to fully finish the basement if desired

Cons

• Foam must be custom ordered and fitted

• Requires precision cutting around pipes, windows and other barriers

• While it can be painted, a specific primer is necessary

Spray Foam and Frame — Finished Basement Walls

Another way to insulate your basement walls is with framing and spray foam. The foam is cut where necessary so that drywall can be applied to the frame to finish the space. In basements with very uneven walls, this is the only option to insulate the walls.

Pros

• Finishes the basement into a livable space

• Cleanest look

• Works on uneven walls such as older homes with field stone walls

• Most air and water tight of all options

Cons

• Time consuming installation

• Requires ventilation after installation for 24 hours before you can enter the space

• Installing drywall is required to meet fire safety code

This basement wall is ready to be painted

Attic Insulation

Did you know?

9 out of 10 homes built prior to 2010 do not have the 16 inches of insulation between you and outside required by the Department of Energy

The Priority: Attic Gap Sealing

We start any attic project by sealing gaps like these before placing insulation. This step is crucial, and failure to do so can allow pests in and allow heat to escape even through insulation. Though they might look small, these types of gaps are often major areas of energy waste.

Blown-in Fiberglass/Cellulose — Attic Floors

Traditionally, attics have been mostly insulated with fiberglass batts or a thin layer of blown in insulation, if at all. Today, a specialized machine can evenly distribute either cellulose or fiberglass insulation into your attic to insulate it. We make sure that gaps are sealed before the process begins. Gaps are common around chimneys, soffit, and drop ceilings. We begin by making sure these gaps are closed and then we can blow in your insulation. This is a great option for attics that are not used or appropriate for living space, such as the attic of a ranch style home.

Pros

• Uniform coverage

• 85% recycled content

• Easier to fill hard to reach areas

• Lasts the lifetime of the home unless it gets wet

• Most eco-friendly material in the manufacturing process

Cons

• Heavy equipment needed

• More difficult to remove later than other options

• More cleanup - creates dust when installed and if later disturbed

• Can be a happy home to pests if they find a way in (fiberglass)

Spray Foam — Attic Rafters

For attics that are livable spaces or wish to be used as living or storage space, using spray foam to insulate the rafters (or ceiling of the attic) can be a great option. This works best in attics that have decent access as the insulation team needs close proximity to where they are installing the spray foam. The final result creates a well-insulated and comfortable space.

Pros

• Great option for livable spaces, no dust

• Most effective at saving heat in winter and cool in summer

• Prevents pests and pollutants

• Lasts the lifetime of the home and is waterproof

Cons

• Most expensive material

• Requires a special barrier to be installed first

• Takes longer to install

• Requires a fire resistant barrier (such as drywall) to be installed

Rigid Foam — Attic Roof and Kneewalls

Some attics are eligible to have rigid foam installed. This can work well for livable spaces with good access. It can be placed on the roof line of a walk-up attic and/or kneewall crawl space attics. This is most common in bungalows.

Pros

• Air tight insulation like spray or rigid prevents warm air from touching the back of the roof which may cause condensation and water issues

• Helps keep house warm and less drafty

• More cost effective than spray foam

• Great for storage and livable space

Cons

• Longest installation because of precision cutting around pipes and corners

• Only certain attic types are appropriate for rigid foam

• Most commercially available rigid foams are not fire safe -- solutions include covering drywall. We do have a brand that is fire and water safe and looks like drywall, perfect for attics and basements.